I know we keep disappearing from our blog and it leaves people wondering, what's going on?? To get everyone up to speed, here is what Nils and I have been doing... I'm just trying to think where I need to start!
May 2009 - My sister Ellen comes to visit us in Romania! We take her on a trip to various parts of Italy and then she and I make a 3-day trip to Paris. Peter, Nils' brother joins us in Rome.
June 2009 - We show Ellen different parts of Romania including Constanta (on the Black Sea) and Sighisoara (in the Carpathian Mountains).
June 12, 2009 - I find out I'm pregnant. Nils knows about it first and is so convinced that I am pregnant regardless of how much I or my sister tell him he is wrong. He is the one who decides to buy a pregnancy test to verify his intuition and... he is right! We notify Peace Corps and are told that I am only able to continue as a volunteer until August or September.
June 18, 2009 - Nils and I go to Brasov for a youth leadership training retreat, the final activity for Nils' project.
June 20, 2009 - On the way home from Brasov, Nils receives the much anticipated e-mail from USAID announcing his invitation to start training as a Junior Officer. Training class begins July 20th.
July 3rd, 2009 - After saying our teary goodbyes and wishing all of our newly-made friends in Romania well, Nils and I head back to the United States via Amsterdam and Minneapolis, MN. While enjoying our 6-hour layover in Minneapolis, we decide to take the metro to the Mall of America. After over 24 hours of travel, we arrive in Logan, Utah around 11:30pm MST. A funny "aside"... while boarding the plane from Minneapolis to Salt Lake City, my alarm clock goes off. I had set it for 3:00am Romania time because we had to leave our hotel via taxi at 4:00am in order to make our 6:05am plane to Amsterdam. So by the time we were on the plane at Minneapolis, it had already been 24 hours according to my Romanian clock. Funny, huh! (Btw, my alarm still works even if I've turned off my phone. It was kinda embarrassing to have it go off while on the plane. Luckily, I still had time to turn it back on, cancel the alarm and turn it off again before they closed the doors and made the announcement to turn off all cellphones and pagers.)
July 3-9, 2009 - We visit with Nils' family and get our things ready to ship to Virginia.
July 9-14, 2009 - We drive to Ellsworth, Kansas to visit my family.
July 14 - 16, 2009 - We drive from Kansas to Vienna, VA (our new home) making a short stop at the Columbus, Ohio Temple. (The Logan Temple is closed for cleaning during our stay, and the DC Temple is closed until July 27th also for cleaning.)
And so here we are, back in the USA. I'll be posting more about Peace Corps and the things we accomplished during our 17 months. I'll also post about Nils' job and what it means for our future. By August 21st we should know our next destination. Yep, as a foreign service junior officer, Nils will be receiving an overseas assignment within the next month. We won't actually leave in August.... We're hoping we'll at least be here in the United States long enough for me to have the baby. Oh, and I'll also be sure to post about the baby too!
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Sofia, Bulgaria
And finally we come to Sofia, Bulgaria! For pictures, click here.
Last of our cities, Sofia had a lot to live up to. I came to appreciate stopping in Sofia, seeing it as a means to gently descend from my cloud before heading back to Romania and to work.
When we first arrived in Sofia, a man came up to me speaking in broken Romanian (which was interesting to hear) asking me if we already had tickets to where we wanted to go. We, as a group, had set the trend of buying tickets upon arrival so we could plan our day accordingly. We were planning to only stay the day in Sofia, so buying tickets was actually what we were looking to do. But I wasn't about to follow a strange guy who didn't look very official. I answered him in Romanian and attempted a mix of ignoring him and deferring to Nils. Nils started making his way to the various counters, the man "leading" the way in front of him. The man "lead" us to an agency which apparently sold international tickets. The woman behind the counter spoke some English and we explained that we were traveling on the Balkan Flexi Pass. She said we still needed to reserve seats. She punched a few things into her calculator and showed us the estimated cost for the 4 of us. Not bad... but she came across really confusing at the same time and the lack of customer service skills didn't help. Another problem was that we hadn't yet gotten any Bulgarian currency. So before we purchased tickets, Nils headed off to find an ATM, the "guide" man trailing behind him. The man directed him to the exchange counter, which Nils politely declined and continued his search for an ATM. It's interesting when people are trying to be helpful and yet come across like you have to do it their way. Nils returned and we purchased the tickets. I then asked, to make sure, whether these tickets were for a sleeper car. No, just regular seats. Then I asked how much it would cost if we wanted to return the tickets or upgrade to a sleeper. She replied that she would have to take out the 10% commission. Commission?? I didn't know we had paid commission! Then she proved to be rather flustered as she proceeded to say that out of the 30 Bulgarian Leva, we would get only 20 back. Umm... 10% of 30 is not 10. We said as much and after a few punches on the calculator she came up with a more accurate amount... 27 Bulgarian Leva back. Anyway... we decided to keep our tickets and do a little more checking before proceeding with our tour of the city. A few more inquiries proved that the agency was indeed the only place were international tickets were sold. And... to our surprise, the guy who had been guiding us around didn't even ask for a tip. Interesting.
Not having started off exactly on the right foot, but still feeling somewhat hopeful, we packed our bags into a few lockers at the train station and started off to see the sights. Sofia is a surprisingly beautiful city with many ancient buildings and plenty of history. To learn more about Sofia's extensive history, click here. We some directions and help from a local vendor and a newly purchased map. Maps sure are amazing things! We wondered for a while, sat for a while, watched pigeons in the park for a while, slept for a while.... we were all pretty tired and had slowed down considerably. But one thing I thought timely about our arrival was the fact that it was Orthodox Easter weekend. With the countless churches in the city, we saw masses of people standing in line to perform a Easter ceremony which symbolizes death and resurrection. After receiving a blessing from the priest, and a kind of branch (I'm can't remember of what plant or tree), a person crouches under a table, scoots across and stands up on the other end.
I've noted in Romania as well, and having had it affirmed in my travels, that American culture is much more traditionally diverse. And with this traditional diversity, there isn't a strong traditional culture. For example, Easter in Romania has specific, not just traditions, but actual things you do (midnight candle lighting, attending church, doing the symbolic resurrection rite, etc.), say (Christ is risen/true he is risen), and eat (cozonac, eggs, lamb and anything made of lamb, wine) to honor the holiday. In America for Easter we may have an Easter egg hunt, we may wear new Spring dresses, but it doesn't have the same touch of formality, correctness, and deeply rooted tradition that exists in other places and cultures. Being somewhat familiar with Catholicism, there is a lot of similarity between the rites and religious traditions of the Orthodox but it just isn't as nation-wide as I've seen in other countries. An interesting side note since we hit upon Easter.
We continued to wander, sampled some food (very, very good, by the way) all the while enjoying the slower pace until it was time for our train. The day went slowly and quickly. As Nils looked back at the pictures he was surprise at all the things we really did see while there.
An amazing trip... a good ending. I enjoyed it thoroughly though I have to admit I was happy to be back in Romania where I could finally understand most of what people were saying!
Last of our cities, Sofia had a lot to live up to. I came to appreciate stopping in Sofia, seeing it as a means to gently descend from my cloud before heading back to Romania and to work.
When we first arrived in Sofia, a man came up to me speaking in broken Romanian (which was interesting to hear) asking me if we already had tickets to where we wanted to go. We, as a group, had set the trend of buying tickets upon arrival so we could plan our day accordingly. We were planning to only stay the day in Sofia, so buying tickets was actually what we were looking to do. But I wasn't about to follow a strange guy who didn't look very official. I answered him in Romanian and attempted a mix of ignoring him and deferring to Nils. Nils started making his way to the various counters, the man "leading" the way in front of him. The man "lead" us to an agency which apparently sold international tickets. The woman behind the counter spoke some English and we explained that we were traveling on the Balkan Flexi Pass. She said we still needed to reserve seats. She punched a few things into her calculator and showed us the estimated cost for the 4 of us. Not bad... but she came across really confusing at the same time and the lack of customer service skills didn't help. Another problem was that we hadn't yet gotten any Bulgarian currency. So before we purchased tickets, Nils headed off to find an ATM, the "guide" man trailing behind him. The man directed him to the exchange counter, which Nils politely declined and continued his search for an ATM. It's interesting when people are trying to be helpful and yet come across like you have to do it their way. Nils returned and we purchased the tickets. I then asked, to make sure, whether these tickets were for a sleeper car. No, just regular seats. Then I asked how much it would cost if we wanted to return the tickets or upgrade to a sleeper. She replied that she would have to take out the 10% commission. Commission?? I didn't know we had paid commission! Then she proved to be rather flustered as she proceeded to say that out of the 30 Bulgarian Leva, we would get only 20 back. Umm... 10% of 30 is not 10. We said as much and after a few punches on the calculator she came up with a more accurate amount... 27 Bulgarian Leva back. Anyway... we decided to keep our tickets and do a little more checking before proceeding with our tour of the city. A few more inquiries proved that the agency was indeed the only place were international tickets were sold. And... to our surprise, the guy who had been guiding us around didn't even ask for a tip. Interesting.
Not having started off exactly on the right foot, but still feeling somewhat hopeful, we packed our bags into a few lockers at the train station and started off to see the sights. Sofia is a surprisingly beautiful city with many ancient buildings and plenty of history. To learn more about Sofia's extensive history, click here. We some directions and help from a local vendor and a newly purchased map. Maps sure are amazing things! We wondered for a while, sat for a while, watched pigeons in the park for a while, slept for a while.... we were all pretty tired and had slowed down considerably. But one thing I thought timely about our arrival was the fact that it was Orthodox Easter weekend. With the countless churches in the city, we saw masses of people standing in line to perform a Easter ceremony which symbolizes death and resurrection. After receiving a blessing from the priest, and a kind of branch (I'm can't remember of what plant or tree), a person crouches under a table, scoots across and stands up on the other end.
I've noted in Romania as well, and having had it affirmed in my travels, that American culture is much more traditionally diverse. And with this traditional diversity, there isn't a strong traditional culture. For example, Easter in Romania has specific, not just traditions, but actual things you do (midnight candle lighting, attending church, doing the symbolic resurrection rite, etc.), say (Christ is risen/true he is risen), and eat (cozonac, eggs, lamb and anything made of lamb, wine) to honor the holiday. In America for Easter we may have an Easter egg hunt, we may wear new Spring dresses, but it doesn't have the same touch of formality, correctness, and deeply rooted tradition that exists in other places and cultures. Being somewhat familiar with Catholicism, there is a lot of similarity between the rites and religious traditions of the Orthodox but it just isn't as nation-wide as I've seen in other countries. An interesting side note since we hit upon Easter.
We continued to wander, sampled some food (very, very good, by the way) all the while enjoying the slower pace until it was time for our train. The day went slowly and quickly. As Nils looked back at the pictures he was surprise at all the things we really did see while there.
An amazing trip... a good ending. I enjoyed it thoroughly though I have to admit I was happy to be back in Romania where I could finally understand most of what people were saying!
Monday, May 11, 2009
Greece - Thessaloniki, Mount Olympus, and Meteora
Greece!! It really is just as beautiful as movies and postcards say it is! Don't believe me? Look at these!
Again, rather than posting a bunch of pictures into the blog itself, take a look at our pictures when you have time and I'll do my best to update descriptions and locations. In case you didn't catch the link above, or it doesn't work for some reason, the pictures can be accessed by the following link: http://picasaweb.google.com/ohara.emily/GreeceApril2009#
Now for a few stories to go along with the pictures. :)
We took a night train from Istanbul to Thessaloniki, one of the best sleeper trains I've been on yet! (I've been on 5 so far). Two to a room complete with sink/mirror, places to hang and store things; the train was amazingly up-to-date and clean! The only thing that interrupted our restful sleep was the middle-of-the-night border crossings... but that was to be expected.
Once in Thessaloniki, we easily found our hotel and I was delighted to finally take a full shower. Yes, three days in Istanbul had to bear a grubby woman, virtually undetectable through the sink-washed clean hair. It's so easy to fool people :) Once showered and everyone ready to explore, we set off to accomplish a short to-do list created by Nils' cousin Tyler who had spent last summer living in Thessaloniki. The most important item was to figure out how to get to the Meteora Monasteries. Tyler had included some important key words and places to help us find our way. So, after speaking briefly with the hotel desk-guy and getting a little more help as to the where and how, we started off to find the bus station. This proved a lot more difficult than we had anticipated. First there was a lot of construction on the road where the hotel desk-guy had directed us to go. Then, we couldn't get anyone to stop and help us. After wondering around some more in a slight circle, we asked someone who pointed us to the local bus station. Not quite what we were looking for. Finally we happened upon a station with various transportation vehicles which seemed to transport people OUT of the city. We went inside the small office and asked about Meteora. After a minute of locating someone who could speak English (sorry... it was all Greek to us!) we were told that the bus station we needed was actually in a completely different part of town. To get there we would need to walk down the street to catch bus number 1, go so many stops, look for this whatever, and cross over to the something and there you are! What? We were all a little too tired and confused by that point to process and follow those instructions.
So, we decided to take a break and complete another item on Tyler's to-do list. Pizza Hut's Cyprus Lover's pizza! Now we're talkin'! Making our way to Thessaloniki's center, we walked along the water's edge, leading up to the white tower enjoying the view and hoping to find Pizza Hut (we didn't know exactly where it was). Gorgeous city! I mean, you can't go wrong spending some quality time in Thessaloniki. We found Pizza Hut, felt extremely happy once we had eaten, and continued to explore. And then it rained. And I mean... RAINED. You'll notice great puddles in a few of the pictures. That was but a few minutes after the raining had stopped, and it only rained for a few minutes. We took shelter, waited a bit, the rain stopped and we proceeded to explore. We still weren't sure what we were looking for, or if we were headed in the right direction, but everyone seemed content to just wonder for a while.
Then Cynthia noticed we were in Thessaloniki's version of China Town. Cool! We stopped into a little shop and browsed through some of their imported goods. Cynthia chatted a bit in her amazing Chinese (I think it was Mandarin). We realized we might get some better directions to Meteora by asking these friendly people for help. Cynthia was such a good sport and did an excellent job communicating and translating for us. Imagine! We're in Greece, where none of us know the language (not even remotely) and Cynthia's language skills come to the rescue. We were told that the station was a 20-30 minute walk from where we were! Awesome. We started off and sure enough, found ourselves roughly 30 minutes later at the bus station. We found the signs to Meteora and asked the guy at the desk how much the tickets would cost. 37 Euro round trip per person, including a transfer and a long walk up the mountain. Sounds reasonable, but for some reason, I found myself trying to keep calm (37 euro per person!! That's 74 Euro just for me and Nils!! See... we were on a very small budget). So I lightly suggested that we find a seat and discuss it together. I did my best not to be a party pooper and just listen to everyone's thoughts and wishes while gathering my emotions. As I did the math in my head and figured just how much it would cost for the 4 of us to go by bus, besides the inconvenience, it suddenly dawned on me that we had another option to consider. Rent a car!!! This suggestion was well-received, and having noticed a car rental agency at the train station, we agreed to head to the train station and inquire about renting a car. Stroke of brilliance, if I do say so myself, for the whole thing worked out well and we had a car reserved within minutes.
As a side, I had suggested to Nils renting a car when we were making our Italy/France trip plans. He didn't really trust the idea, thinking of all the hidden fees and extra costs that can go into renting a car. But, after this experience of actually renting a car and seeing the ease and economy of it, he is completely converted to the idea! I couldn't be prouder.
Perfect! We had a car ready for the morning to take us anywhere we wanted to go, so we finished off the evening by completing another item on the list; a lovely Greek restaurant. The day had started less than ideal, but ended with smiles and excitement.
Well, we didn't get up as early as we had hoped, but we made it to the train station to pick up the car rental at a relatively good time. Stopping to fill up on gas (well, we put in a little more than half a tank's worth) we headed off for Meteora. I took on the task of navigator and believe me, maps are hard enough to navigate without it being covered in Greek. Pete and Cynthia were actually quite a help as Pete referred to a little Greek/English book he'd purchased upon arrival. Things became more understandable and familiar as we practiced reading the Greek letters to each other. As we drove (Nils was the driver since I had left my license at home) along, noting the beautiful scenery and easy roads, Nils noticed a sign for Mount Olympus. Mount Olympus!! We simply had to stop. A perfect detour it turned out to be. The air so fresh and crisp, the mountain so lovely and green... Wow, you couldn't do that traveling by bus!
The Meteora Monasteries are situated at the top of these massive mountainous rocks. In a world of their own, these monasteries inspire meditation and reverence. We toured one of them, learning a lot about early Christian martyrs and miracles. I felt truly thankful to people who over the centuries had dedicated their lives to preserving and cherishing the history of Christianity.
As we left the monasteries there was a notable sense of satisfaction and calm. What a wonderful day!
Getting back was another story. We were all being rather thrifty at this point, figuring and estimating how much gas we would need to get back. We had given ourselves, to our best estimation, enough time to arrive at the train station well before our 9pm deadline. We put 8 more euros into the tank and I lead us through what turned out to be the "scenic route" back to the city. We drove along, enjoying a slight pause to let some goats cross the road, and kept watching the time. So far, so good. But, little by little, I started getting nervous. Finally we reached the main highway and made better speed and gas mileage. Whew... almost. Then the gas light went on. But there really wasn't a convenient place to stop. Then again, those gas lights tend to turn on when there's at least a few liters left in the tank, right? So we kept on going. Then we hit a toll booth. I seriously was so nervous, not because of paying the toll, but just thinking about how much more gas it took to slow down and speed back up. It took great effort to keep calm and relaxed. Finally we reached Thessaloniki's city limits and we hadn't run out of gas completely yet, the constant chant of prayer in my head being the only thing keeping me together. Then it hit me that I didn't know which exit to take! Before I could panic even more (if that was possible), Nils noticed a sign to the Centre and took that exit. I tried not to react and worry about it being the wrong one. As we made our way around the ramp exit, nothing looked familiar and there were no gas stations in sight. We kept going a little ways, made a right and suddenly found ourselves passing the bus station! Perfect! We knew exactly where we were. Nils, what a genius! The last thing we had to do before returning the car, we decided, was to put in a few more liters of gas. It was only right. No one should return a car COMPLETELY empty for the next person. As we drove down the main road, gas station after gas station showed dimmed lights and signs of being closed. I couldn't believe it! Closed at this early hour? It wasn't that late. Finally, when we were almost to the train station to make the drop off, we saw a still-lighted Shell station. We had to make a few turns to get on the right side of the road, my breath stopping at each stop and go, and we slid into the station around 8:45pm. I looked at the guy working, a rather cute guy, and he started making hand signals to say that they were closed. CLOSED?? Not possible. Not after making it this far. With nothing to lose, I made a pleading sign and showed the most pitiful face til he nodded and came over to let us buy some gas. Apparently they have to pump if for you (who knew?).
So we made it!... with 8 minutes to spare. Whew! Prayers answered and Nils' passport, we finished off the evening at a local restaurant before boarding the train for Sofia. Greece turned out to be a trip which opened our eyes to the beauties of the earth, and the adventures of cutting it close.
Again, rather than posting a bunch of pictures into the blog itself, take a look at our pictures when you have time and I'll do my best to update descriptions and locations. In case you didn't catch the link above, or it doesn't work for some reason, the pictures can be accessed by the following link: http://picasaweb.google.com/ohara.emily/GreeceApril2009#
Now for a few stories to go along with the pictures. :)
We took a night train from Istanbul to Thessaloniki, one of the best sleeper trains I've been on yet! (I've been on 5 so far). Two to a room complete with sink/mirror, places to hang and store things; the train was amazingly up-to-date and clean! The only thing that interrupted our restful sleep was the middle-of-the-night border crossings... but that was to be expected.
Once in Thessaloniki, we easily found our hotel and I was delighted to finally take a full shower. Yes, three days in Istanbul had to bear a grubby woman, virtually undetectable through the sink-washed clean hair. It's so easy to fool people :) Once showered and everyone ready to explore, we set off to accomplish a short to-do list created by Nils' cousin Tyler who had spent last summer living in Thessaloniki. The most important item was to figure out how to get to the Meteora Monasteries. Tyler had included some important key words and places to help us find our way. So, after speaking briefly with the hotel desk-guy and getting a little more help as to the where and how, we started off to find the bus station. This proved a lot more difficult than we had anticipated. First there was a lot of construction on the road where the hotel desk-guy had directed us to go. Then, we couldn't get anyone to stop and help us. After wondering around some more in a slight circle, we asked someone who pointed us to the local bus station. Not quite what we were looking for. Finally we happened upon a station with various transportation vehicles which seemed to transport people OUT of the city. We went inside the small office and asked about Meteora. After a minute of locating someone who could speak English (sorry... it was all Greek to us!) we were told that the bus station we needed was actually in a completely different part of town. To get there we would need to walk down the street to catch bus number 1, go so many stops, look for this whatever, and cross over to the something and there you are! What? We were all a little too tired and confused by that point to process and follow those instructions.
So, we decided to take a break and complete another item on Tyler's to-do list. Pizza Hut's Cyprus Lover's pizza! Now we're talkin'! Making our way to Thessaloniki's center, we walked along the water's edge, leading up to the white tower enjoying the view and hoping to find Pizza Hut (we didn't know exactly where it was). Gorgeous city! I mean, you can't go wrong spending some quality time in Thessaloniki. We found Pizza Hut, felt extremely happy once we had eaten, and continued to explore. And then it rained. And I mean... RAINED. You'll notice great puddles in a few of the pictures. That was but a few minutes after the raining had stopped, and it only rained for a few minutes. We took shelter, waited a bit, the rain stopped and we proceeded to explore. We still weren't sure what we were looking for, or if we were headed in the right direction, but everyone seemed content to just wonder for a while.
Then Cynthia noticed we were in Thessaloniki's version of China Town. Cool! We stopped into a little shop and browsed through some of their imported goods. Cynthia chatted a bit in her amazing Chinese (I think it was Mandarin). We realized we might get some better directions to Meteora by asking these friendly people for help. Cynthia was such a good sport and did an excellent job communicating and translating for us. Imagine! We're in Greece, where none of us know the language (not even remotely) and Cynthia's language skills come to the rescue. We were told that the station was a 20-30 minute walk from where we were! Awesome. We started off and sure enough, found ourselves roughly 30 minutes later at the bus station. We found the signs to Meteora and asked the guy at the desk how much the tickets would cost. 37 Euro round trip per person, including a transfer and a long walk up the mountain. Sounds reasonable, but for some reason, I found myself trying to keep calm (37 euro per person!! That's 74 Euro just for me and Nils!! See... we were on a very small budget). So I lightly suggested that we find a seat and discuss it together. I did my best not to be a party pooper and just listen to everyone's thoughts and wishes while gathering my emotions. As I did the math in my head and figured just how much it would cost for the 4 of us to go by bus, besides the inconvenience, it suddenly dawned on me that we had another option to consider. Rent a car!!! This suggestion was well-received, and having noticed a car rental agency at the train station, we agreed to head to the train station and inquire about renting a car. Stroke of brilliance, if I do say so myself, for the whole thing worked out well and we had a car reserved within minutes.
As a side, I had suggested to Nils renting a car when we were making our Italy/France trip plans. He didn't really trust the idea, thinking of all the hidden fees and extra costs that can go into renting a car. But, after this experience of actually renting a car and seeing the ease and economy of it, he is completely converted to the idea! I couldn't be prouder.
Perfect! We had a car ready for the morning to take us anywhere we wanted to go, so we finished off the evening by completing another item on the list; a lovely Greek restaurant. The day had started less than ideal, but ended with smiles and excitement.
Well, we didn't get up as early as we had hoped, but we made it to the train station to pick up the car rental at a relatively good time. Stopping to fill up on gas (well, we put in a little more than half a tank's worth) we headed off for Meteora. I took on the task of navigator and believe me, maps are hard enough to navigate without it being covered in Greek. Pete and Cynthia were actually quite a help as Pete referred to a little Greek/English book he'd purchased upon arrival. Things became more understandable and familiar as we practiced reading the Greek letters to each other. As we drove (Nils was the driver since I had left my license at home) along, noting the beautiful scenery and easy roads, Nils noticed a sign for Mount Olympus. Mount Olympus!! We simply had to stop. A perfect detour it turned out to be. The air so fresh and crisp, the mountain so lovely and green... Wow, you couldn't do that traveling by bus!
The Meteora Monasteries are situated at the top of these massive mountainous rocks. In a world of their own, these monasteries inspire meditation and reverence. We toured one of them, learning a lot about early Christian martyrs and miracles. I felt truly thankful to people who over the centuries had dedicated their lives to preserving and cherishing the history of Christianity.
As we left the monasteries there was a notable sense of satisfaction and calm. What a wonderful day!
Getting back was another story. We were all being rather thrifty at this point, figuring and estimating how much gas we would need to get back. We had given ourselves, to our best estimation, enough time to arrive at the train station well before our 9pm deadline. We put 8 more euros into the tank and I lead us through what turned out to be the "scenic route" back to the city. We drove along, enjoying a slight pause to let some goats cross the road, and kept watching the time. So far, so good. But, little by little, I started getting nervous. Finally we reached the main highway and made better speed and gas mileage. Whew... almost. Then the gas light went on. But there really wasn't a convenient place to stop. Then again, those gas lights tend to turn on when there's at least a few liters left in the tank, right? So we kept on going. Then we hit a toll booth. I seriously was so nervous, not because of paying the toll, but just thinking about how much more gas it took to slow down and speed back up. It took great effort to keep calm and relaxed. Finally we reached Thessaloniki's city limits and we hadn't run out of gas completely yet, the constant chant of prayer in my head being the only thing keeping me together. Then it hit me that I didn't know which exit to take! Before I could panic even more (if that was possible), Nils noticed a sign to the Centre and took that exit. I tried not to react and worry about it being the wrong one. As we made our way around the ramp exit, nothing looked familiar and there were no gas stations in sight. We kept going a little ways, made a right and suddenly found ourselves passing the bus station! Perfect! We knew exactly where we were. Nils, what a genius! The last thing we had to do before returning the car, we decided, was to put in a few more liters of gas. It was only right. No one should return a car COMPLETELY empty for the next person. As we drove down the main road, gas station after gas station showed dimmed lights and signs of being closed. I couldn't believe it! Closed at this early hour? It wasn't that late. Finally, when we were almost to the train station to make the drop off, we saw a still-lighted Shell station. We had to make a few turns to get on the right side of the road, my breath stopping at each stop and go, and we slid into the station around 8:45pm. I looked at the guy working, a rather cute guy, and he started making hand signals to say that they were closed. CLOSED?? Not possible. Not after making it this far. With nothing to lose, I made a pleading sign and showed the most pitiful face til he nodded and came over to let us buy some gas. Apparently they have to pump if for you (who knew?).
So we made it!... with 8 minutes to spare. Whew! Prayers answered and Nils' passport, we finished off the evening at a local restaurant before boarding the train for Sofia. Greece turned out to be a trip which opened our eyes to the beauties of the earth, and the adventures of cutting it close.
Sunday, April 26, 2009
Istanbul, Turkey
Istanbul is an amazing place. It should definitely make it on your "must see before I die" list. There is simply too much to show and tell that it's not going to quite fit on this blog post. So... I've selected a few stories and some pictures that represent some of what we saw and did while there. To go straight to our pictures, click here.
Border Crossing and Visas
Our journey started by train through Bulgaria and into Turkey. After crossing Bulgaria, around 3:00 AM, we all had to get off the train and line up for passport and visas. The first guy in line was Romanian and was speaking in broken English to the Turkish border patrol agent. The agent was explaining something about a visa and another gentleman in line behind us spoke in Romanian explaining that certain travelers had to obtain a visa somewhere else in order to enter Turkey. It was nice to understand something, even though it wasn't in our native language. So more than half of the people in line, went back outside to ask where the visas could be purchased and we were directed in a general direction of a cigarette stand and some other offices and buildings. The cute older gentleman in front stopped at the stand to ask if he could obtain a visa and it took him a minute to realize he was in the wrong place... by then everyone else had gotten ahead of him and were obtaining their visas at another window. I can't blame him, it was really hard to find out where to go and what to do... especially at 3 o'clock in the morning!
So there was this American guy traveling on the train with us. Now, the visa into Turkey is 15 euro or 20 USD. He had 13 dollars on him... a 10 and 3 crumpled 1's. He wasn't totally unprepared, carrying his trusty plastic cards. Oh, but guess what... no ATM machines handy. It's so funny how inconvenient things can be at a border crossing. And there is definitely no mercy. Luckily, Nils and I had some extra Euros to spot him so he could get safely across. We weren't sure whether we'd get paid back, but a friend in need... well, it was worth helping someone out. Besides, we've been in plenty of problems ourselves and it's nice to have someone there to help. I mean, we couldn't just leave the guy there at the border between Bulgaria and Turkey. And you know what, it definitely paid off. Once we arrived in Istanbul, the guy took our some money and not only let us keep his 13 dollars, but also gave Nils a 50 turkish lyra (worth about 34 USD).
Finding Our Hostel
Unfortunately, Nils and I had forgotten all of the information for the hostel we'd reserved. Fortunately, Nils knew which metro stop to get off of. Unfortunately, we didn't know exactly where to go from there. Fortunately, Nils knew the general direction having studied the map prior to our departure. Unfortunately, he'd never been to Istanbul before. Fortunately, we didn't have too many bags with us, so walking around was no problem. Unfortunately, bags start to get heavy after 20 minutes. Fortunately, we started seeing other hostels apprearing along the streets. Unfortunately, none of them were our hostel. Fortunately, we decided to ask the owner of Sinbad Hostel who just happened to be standing on the sidewalk where our "Budget Hostel" (yes, that's the name) was. Unfortunately, we didn't understand Turkish. Fortunately all he had to do was point.... around the corner.
Quality over Price
For anyone who's traveled using hostels, you'll know how diverse each place can me. When you "shop" online for the right place, you're never quite sure what you're getting. Nils found Budget Hostel to provide the best bang for the buck. In truth, we got free breakfast, clean sheets, and a bathroom/shower. But there are certain qualities of a hostel that go far beyond what can possibly be advertised. Our room which could hold 5 people (4 on bunk beds) was actually the room where 4 guests and the manager slept. It was also conveniently located in the basement and at a good spot for hearing the "tweeting-bird" door bell which had to be used anytime a guest wanted to come back in since no keys were actually given to guests (although I think some guests received room keys...?). Our bathroom was on the same level, but without a functioning toilet. No worries, up two flights (climbing a very narrow staircase) was another bathroom used by us and the other guests on that floor. Most of the time it was free, so it didn't cause any real inconvenience. Showering was another matter. The shower didn't really have its own spot in the bathroom and for the one on our basement level, the shower was right ontop of the toilet. The upstairs bathroom provided a little more space, but not much... and don't even think about a shower curtain. Needless to say, most of us "roughed" it.
On the very top floor of the hostel you found the eating area where breakfast was served. Pete ended up drinking A LOT of Turkish tea until Nils and I mastered the ability to say "no thank you" before our gentle hosts served us. They're really fast and just the nicest hosts! It was a really nice place to have breakfast given that the building was fairly tall and brought you up out of the mass of buildings, allowing you to see around you including a mosque and some of the bodies of water. Our hosts were so wonderful, extremely kind and friendly. Our first day we opened up a travel guide and tried to learn some of the essentials like "thank you" and "where is the bathroom" (this last one we actually used to make sure we knew which bathroom to use in the hostel). The manager spoke English very well, and of the two assistants, one spoke fairly well, the other not a word. The latter who didn't know very much English was the sweetest. An older gentleman, we often communicated with lots of smiling and nodding.
And so...
Istanbul constantly surprises you with beautiful and interesting things that hold so much history and age. It's also very much accustomed to tourists and how to attract your attention. A very wonderful 3 days!
Highlight Pictures
The inner court of the Blue Mosque (built right across from the Hagia Sophia by Sultan Ahmed in 1616 hoping to make it bigger and better mosque than the Hagia Sophia).
Hagia Sophia (locally called the Aya Sofya) and gardens. Click here to learn more about the history of this amazing biserica turned mosque.
The Topkapi Palace built during the mid-15th century
Along the harbor of the Golden Horn looking over the other European side of Istanbul.
A cool picture of Peter and Nils in the Hagia Sophia.
A bicycle race that was going on our first day
Crossing on a local ferry through the Straits of Bosphorus into Asia.
(well, actually this was taken on the return trip)
Border Crossing and Visas
Our journey started by train through Bulgaria and into Turkey. After crossing Bulgaria, around 3:00 AM, we all had to get off the train and line up for passport and visas. The first guy in line was Romanian and was speaking in broken English to the Turkish border patrol agent. The agent was explaining something about a visa and another gentleman in line behind us spoke in Romanian explaining that certain travelers had to obtain a visa somewhere else in order to enter Turkey. It was nice to understand something, even though it wasn't in our native language. So more than half of the people in line, went back outside to ask where the visas could be purchased and we were directed in a general direction of a cigarette stand and some other offices and buildings. The cute older gentleman in front stopped at the stand to ask if he could obtain a visa and it took him a minute to realize he was in the wrong place... by then everyone else had gotten ahead of him and were obtaining their visas at another window. I can't blame him, it was really hard to find out where to go and what to do... especially at 3 o'clock in the morning!
So there was this American guy traveling on the train with us. Now, the visa into Turkey is 15 euro or 20 USD. He had 13 dollars on him... a 10 and 3 crumpled 1's. He wasn't totally unprepared, carrying his trusty plastic cards. Oh, but guess what... no ATM machines handy. It's so funny how inconvenient things can be at a border crossing. And there is definitely no mercy. Luckily, Nils and I had some extra Euros to spot him so he could get safely across. We weren't sure whether we'd get paid back, but a friend in need... well, it was worth helping someone out. Besides, we've been in plenty of problems ourselves and it's nice to have someone there to help. I mean, we couldn't just leave the guy there at the border between Bulgaria and Turkey. And you know what, it definitely paid off. Once we arrived in Istanbul, the guy took our some money and not only let us keep his 13 dollars, but also gave Nils a 50 turkish lyra (worth about 34 USD).
Finding Our Hostel
Unfortunately, Nils and I had forgotten all of the information for the hostel we'd reserved. Fortunately, Nils knew which metro stop to get off of. Unfortunately, we didn't know exactly where to go from there. Fortunately, Nils knew the general direction having studied the map prior to our departure. Unfortunately, he'd never been to Istanbul before. Fortunately, we didn't have too many bags with us, so walking around was no problem. Unfortunately, bags start to get heavy after 20 minutes. Fortunately, we started seeing other hostels apprearing along the streets. Unfortunately, none of them were our hostel. Fortunately, we decided to ask the owner of Sinbad Hostel who just happened to be standing on the sidewalk where our "Budget Hostel" (yes, that's the name) was. Unfortunately, we didn't understand Turkish. Fortunately all he had to do was point.... around the corner.
Quality over Price
For anyone who's traveled using hostels, you'll know how diverse each place can me. When you "shop" online for the right place, you're never quite sure what you're getting. Nils found Budget Hostel to provide the best bang for the buck. In truth, we got free breakfast, clean sheets, and a bathroom/shower. But there are certain qualities of a hostel that go far beyond what can possibly be advertised. Our room which could hold 5 people (4 on bunk beds) was actually the room where 4 guests and the manager slept. It was also conveniently located in the basement and at a good spot for hearing the "tweeting-bird" door bell which had to be used anytime a guest wanted to come back in since no keys were actually given to guests (although I think some guests received room keys...?). Our bathroom was on the same level, but without a functioning toilet. No worries, up two flights (climbing a very narrow staircase) was another bathroom used by us and the other guests on that floor. Most of the time it was free, so it didn't cause any real inconvenience. Showering was another matter. The shower didn't really have its own spot in the bathroom and for the one on our basement level, the shower was right ontop of the toilet. The upstairs bathroom provided a little more space, but not much... and don't even think about a shower curtain. Needless to say, most of us "roughed" it.
On the very top floor of the hostel you found the eating area where breakfast was served. Pete ended up drinking A LOT of Turkish tea until Nils and I mastered the ability to say "no thank you" before our gentle hosts served us. They're really fast and just the nicest hosts! It was a really nice place to have breakfast given that the building was fairly tall and brought you up out of the mass of buildings, allowing you to see around you including a mosque and some of the bodies of water. Our hosts were so wonderful, extremely kind and friendly. Our first day we opened up a travel guide and tried to learn some of the essentials like "thank you" and "where is the bathroom" (this last one we actually used to make sure we knew which bathroom to use in the hostel). The manager spoke English very well, and of the two assistants, one spoke fairly well, the other not a word. The latter who didn't know very much English was the sweetest. An older gentleman, we often communicated with lots of smiling and nodding.
And so...
Istanbul constantly surprises you with beautiful and interesting things that hold so much history and age. It's also very much accustomed to tourists and how to attract your attention. A very wonderful 3 days!
Highlight Pictures
The inner court of the Blue Mosque (built right across from the Hagia Sophia by Sultan Ahmed in 1616 hoping to make it bigger and better mosque than the Hagia Sophia).
Hagia Sophia (locally called the Aya Sofya) and gardens. Click here to learn more about the history of this amazing biserica turned mosque.
The Topkapi Palace built during the mid-15th century
Along the harbor of the Golden Horn looking over the other European side of Istanbul.
A cool picture of Peter and Nils in the Hagia Sophia.
A bicycle race that was going on our first day
Crossing on a local ferry through the Straits of Bosphorus into Asia.(well, actually this was taken on the return trip)
Istanbul-Thessaloniki-Sofia
Last year I got this sweet postcard from my brother and sister-in-law from Green Gables, Prince Edward Island, with the message "We have just been all over Prince Edward Island. We know you're jealous...." First of all, they are absolutely right. I am jealous. But this trip I recently took has definitely made up for it ;)
Starting on April 11; Nils, Peter (Nils' brother), myself, and Cynthia (a fellow Peace Corps Romania volunteer) all went on this amazing... and I'm talking AMAZING.... trip to Istanbul Turkey, Thessaloniki Greece (as well as Mount Olympus and the Meteora Monasteries), and Sofia Bulgaria. We traveled by train to each country using the Balkan Flexi-Pass. If you'd like any travel tips for trips you are planning, direct your questions to Nils... he's the guru.
The following posts will take each country one at a time since each place is so unique and amazing it its own way. Plus we took way too many pictures to put them all on one post. Well, we're not going to be posting all the pictures here anyway, but... well, it's just a more organized way to separate out the trip, okay!?
Starting on April 11; Nils, Peter (Nils' brother), myself, and Cynthia (a fellow Peace Corps Romania volunteer) all went on this amazing... and I'm talking AMAZING.... trip to Istanbul Turkey, Thessaloniki Greece (as well as Mount Olympus and the Meteora Monasteries), and Sofia Bulgaria. We traveled by train to each country using the Balkan Flexi-Pass. If you'd like any travel tips for trips you are planning, direct your questions to Nils... he's the guru.
The following posts will take each country one at a time since each place is so unique and amazing it its own way. Plus we took way too many pictures to put them all on one post. Well, we're not going to be posting all the pictures here anyway, but... well, it's just a more organized way to separate out the trip, okay!?
Saturday, March 28, 2009
On Tour
So Nils and I have all but disappeared these last few weeks. We've been traveling around Romania and Moldova giving presentations about a new English program Nils has been helping to redesign and improve. It's been fun seeing various cities, but most of our time, truthfully, has been spent on the train.Going into the Republic of Moldova, we took a maxi taxi to Focsani and then boarded an old Russian night train to Moldova. Nils was so excited (this being one of many times for him being on a Russian train, my first). It was almost comical seeing how excited he was. Other people who have used this model of train have referred to it as "The Harry Potter" train. It was clean and actually had a comfortable feel to it... warm and welcoming. For anyone who's never used a sleeper car before, you receive blankets, sheets, pillows and pillow cases and sleep bunk-bed style. Nils shyly admitted he wanted the bottom bunk as he was afraid of falling off. I opted for the upper bunk. Going into the bathroom to brush my teeth was a bit of a shock, seeing the tracks move quickly beneath my feet through a mesh-metal floor. I didn't even think of using the toilet, eyeing the black seat which looked battered and partly melted. But no matter what train you’re on... most bathrooms aren't all that inviting.
Our last presentation was in Brasov and we're happy to be back home. Now all that's left is finishing the workbook that we presented on. Hopefully we'll get that done by Monday and be able to really relax, until our next adventure.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Hop, Skip, and a Jump
Nils took a quick trip back to the United States a few weeks ago. Why would he make such a trip in the middle of our Peace Corps service... without his WIFE? For a job interview!
When it comes to preparing for the future, Nils is always one step ahead. He submitted an application to the United States Agency for International Development (USAID) last Fall and was invited to interview with them in January. Nils and Emily carefully considered purchasing an international plane ticket on our small Peace Corps budget for a short 1-week trip and decided that regardless of the outcome, it would be a worthwhile investment. As luck would have it, the trip was actually paid for by the agency, so our Peace Corps budget is back to normal (no need to continue the food storage regimen). It did feel good, during the period in which we thought the trip was coming out of our own pocket, to realize that we were not only willing to make such an investment in the future, but that we could.
The trip was successful (and packed full!). He got to spend a day in Madrid on the way over and a few days in Utah with his family (thanks Mom and Dad Bergeson!!). Since the interview was in Washington, DC, Toby and Sharole (Emily's brother/sister-in-law) were kind enough to host Nils in exchange for a few hours alone without the kids (as I understand those hours were spent doing errands??). Upon Nils' return he made sure to stock up on contraband (the best of which were tortillas and salsa!!).
For some lovely pictures of the Toby and Sharole O'Hara family, click here.
We'll be sure to keep you posted as we find out the results of the interview and our plans for the future. As always, we feel so blessed to be where we are, right now, and intend to make the most of what we're given (which is a lot!).
When it comes to preparing for the future, Nils is always one step ahead. He submitted an application to the United States Agency for International Development (USAID) last Fall and was invited to interview with them in January. Nils and Emily carefully considered purchasing an international plane ticket on our small Peace Corps budget for a short 1-week trip and decided that regardless of the outcome, it would be a worthwhile investment. As luck would have it, the trip was actually paid for by the agency, so our Peace Corps budget is back to normal (no need to continue the food storage regimen). It did feel good, during the period in which we thought the trip was coming out of our own pocket, to realize that we were not only willing to make such an investment in the future, but that we could.
The trip was successful (and packed full!). He got to spend a day in Madrid on the way over and a few days in Utah with his family (thanks Mom and Dad Bergeson!!). Since the interview was in Washington, DC, Toby and Sharole (Emily's brother/sister-in-law) were kind enough to host Nils in exchange for a few hours alone without the kids (as I understand those hours were spent doing errands??). Upon Nils' return he made sure to stock up on contraband (the best of which were tortillas and salsa!!).
For some lovely pictures of the Toby and Sharole O'Hara family, click here.
We'll be sure to keep you posted as we find out the results of the interview and our plans for the future. As always, we feel so blessed to be where we are, right now, and intend to make the most of what we're given (which is a lot!).
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