Sunday, April 26, 2009

Istanbul, Turkey

Istanbul is an amazing place. It should definitely make it on your "must see before I die" list. There is simply too much to show and tell that it's not going to quite fit on this blog post. So... I've selected a few stories and some pictures that represent some of what we saw and did while there. To go straight to our pictures, click here.

Border Crossing and Visas
Our journey started by train through Bulgaria and into Turkey. After crossing Bulgaria, around 3:00 AM, we all had to get off the train and line up for passport and visas. The first guy in line was Romanian and was speaking in broken English to the Turkish border patrol agent. The agent was explaining something about a visa and another gentleman in line behind us spoke in Romanian explaining that certain travelers had to obtain a visa somewhere else in order to enter Turkey. It was nice to understand something, even though it wasn't in our native language. So more than half of the people in line, went back outside to ask where the visas could be purchased and we were directed in a general direction of a cigarette stand and some other offices and buildings. The cute older gentleman in front stopped at the stand to ask if he could obtain a visa and it took him a minute to realize he was in the wrong place... by then everyone else had gotten ahead of him and were obtaining their visas at another window. I can't blame him, it was really hard to find out where to go and what to do... especially at 3 o'clock in the morning!

So there was this American guy traveling on the train with us. Now, the visa into Turkey is 15 euro or 20 USD. He had 13 dollars on him... a 10 and 3 crumpled 1's. He wasn't totally unprepared, carrying his trusty plastic cards. Oh, but guess what... no ATM machines handy. It's so funny how inconvenient things can be at a border crossing. And there is definitely no mercy. Luckily, Nils and I had some extra Euros to spot him so he could get safely across. We weren't sure whether we'd get paid back, but a friend in need... well, it was worth helping someone out. Besides, we've been in plenty of problems ourselves and it's nice to have someone there to help. I mean, we couldn't just leave the guy there at the border between Bulgaria and Turkey. And you know what, it definitely paid off. Once we arrived in Istanbul, the guy took our some money and not only let us keep his 13 dollars, but also gave Nils a 50 turkish lyra (worth about 34 USD).


Finding Our Hostel
Unfortunately, Nils and I had forgotten all of the information for the hostel we'd reserved. Fortunately, Nils knew which metro stop to get off of. Unfortunately, we didn't know exactly where to go from there. Fortunately, Nils knew the general direction having studied the map prior to our departure. Unfortunately, he'd never been to Istanbul before. Fortunately, we didn't have too many bags with us, so walking around was no problem. Unfortunately, bags start to get heavy after 20 minutes. Fortunately, we started seeing other hostels apprearing along the streets. Unfortunately, none of them were our hostel. Fortunately, we decided to ask the owner of Sinbad Hostel who just happened to be standing on the sidewalk where our "Budget Hostel" (yes, that's the name) was. Unfortunately, we didn't understand Turkish. Fortunately all he had to do was point.... around the corner.

Quality over Price
For anyone who's traveled using hostels, you'll know how diverse each place can me. When you "shop" online for the right place, you're never quite sure what you're getting. Nils found Budget Hostel to provide the best bang for the buck. In truth, we got free breakfast, clean sheets, and a bathroom/shower. But there are certain qualities of a hostel that go far beyond what can possibly be advertised. Our room which could hold 5 people (4 on bunk beds) was actually the room where 4 guests and the manager slept. It was also conveniently located in the basement and at a good spot for hearing the "tweeting-bird" door bell which had to be used anytime a guest wanted to come back in since no keys were actually given to guests (although I think some guests received room keys...?). Our bathroom was on the same level, but without a functioning toilet. No worries, up two flights (climbing a very narrow staircase) was another bathroom used by us and the other guests on that floor. Most of the time it was free, so it didn't cause any real inconvenience. Showering was another matter. The shower didn't really have its own spot in the bathroom and for the one on our basement level, the shower was right ontop of the toilet. The upstairs bathroom provided a little more space, but not much... and don't even think about a shower curtain. Needless to say, most of us "roughed" it.

On the very top floor of the hostel you found the eating area where breakfast was served. Pete ended up drinking A LOT of Turkish tea until Nils and I mastered the ability to say "no thank you" before our gentle hosts served us. They're really fast and just the nicest hosts! It was a really nice place to have breakfast given that the building was fairly tall and brought you up out of the mass of buildings, allowing you to see around you including a mosque and some of the bodies of water. Our hosts were so wonderful, extremely kind and friendly. Our first day we opened up a travel guide and tried to learn some of the essentials like "thank you" and "where is the bathroom" (this last one we actually used to make sure we knew which bathroom to use in the hostel). The manager spoke English very well, and of the two assistants, one spoke fairly well, the other not a word. The latter who didn't know very much English was the sweetest. An older gentleman, we often communicated with lots of smiling and nodding.

And so...
Istanbul constantly surprises you with beautiful and interesting things that hold so much history and age. It's also very much accustomed to tourists and how to attract your attention. A very wonderful 3 days!

Highlight Pictures
The inner court of the Blue Mosque (built right across from the Hagia Sophia by Sultan Ahmed in 1616 hoping to make it bigger and better mosque than the Hagia Sophia).

Hagia Sophia (locally called the Aya Sofya) and gardens. Click here to learn more about the history of this amazing biserica turned mosque.

The Topkapi Palace built during the mid-15th century

Along the harbor of the Golden Horn looking over the other European side of Istanbul.

A cool picture of Peter and Nils in the Hagia Sophia.

A bicycle race that was going on our first day

Crossing on a local ferry through the Straits of Bosphorus into Asia.
(well, actually this was taken on the return trip)

Istanbul-Thessaloniki-Sofia

Last year I got this sweet postcard from my brother and sister-in-law from Green Gables, Prince Edward Island, with the message "We have just been all over Prince Edward Island. We know you're jealous...." First of all, they are absolutely right. I am jealous. But this trip I recently took has definitely made up for it ;)

Starting on April 11; Nils, Peter (Nils' brother), myself, and Cynthia (a fellow Peace Corps Romania volunteer) all went on this amazing... and I'm talking AMAZING.... trip to Istanbul Turkey, Thessaloniki Greece (as well as Mount Olympus and the Meteora Monasteries), and Sofia Bulgaria. We traveled by train to each country using the Balkan Flexi-Pass. If you'd like any travel tips for trips you are planning, direct your questions to Nils... he's the guru.

The following posts will take each country one at a time since each place is so unique and amazing it its own way. Plus we took way too many pictures to put them all on one post. Well, we're not going to be posting all the pictures here anyway, but... well, it's just a more organized way to separate out the trip, okay!?

Saturday, March 28, 2009

On Tour

So Nils and I have all but disappeared these last few weeks. We've been traveling around Romania and Moldova giving presentations about a new English program Nils has been helping to redesign and improve. It's been fun seeing various cities, but most of our time, truthfully, has been spent on the train.

Going into the Republic of Moldova, we took a maxi taxi to Focsani and then boarded an old Russian night train to Moldova. Nils was so excited (this being one of many times for him being on a Russian train, my first). It was almost comical seeing how excited he was. Other people who have used this model of train have referred to it as "The Harry Potter" train. It was clean and actually had a comfortable feel to it... warm and welcoming. For anyone who's never used a sleeper car before, you receive blankets, sheets, pillows and pillow cases and sleep bunk-bed style. Nils shyly admitted he wanted the bottom bunk as he was afraid of falling off. I opted for the upper bunk. Going into the bathroom to brush my teeth was a bit of a shock, seeing the tracks move quickly beneath my feet through a mesh-metal floor. I didn't even think of using the toilet, eyeing the black seat which looked battered and partly melted. But no matter what train you’re on... most bathrooms aren't all that inviting.

Our last presentation was in Brasov and we're happy to be back home. Now all that's left is finishing the workbook that we presented on. Hopefully we'll get that done by Monday and be able to really relax, until our next adventure.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Hop, Skip, and a Jump

Nils took a quick trip back to the United States a few weeks ago. Why would he make such a trip in the middle of our Peace Corps service... without his WIFE? For a job interview!

When it comes to preparing for the future, Nils is always one step ahead. He submitted an application to the United States Agency for International Development (USAID) last Fall and was invited to interview with them in January. Nils and Emily carefully considered purchasing an international plane ticket on our small Peace Corps budget for a short 1-week trip and decided that regardless of the outcome, it would be a worthwhile investment. As luck would have it, the trip was actually paid for by the agency, so our Peace Corps budget is back to normal (no need to continue the food storage regimen). It did feel good, during the period in which we thought the trip was coming out of our own pocket, to realize that we were not only willing to make such an investment in the future, but that we could.

The trip was successful (and packed full!). He got to spend a day in Madrid on the way over and a few days in Utah with his family (thanks Mom and Dad Bergeson!!). Since the interview was in Washington, DC, Toby and Sharole (Emily's brother/sister-in-law) were kind enough to host Nils in exchange for a few hours alone without the kids (as I understand those hours were spent doing errands??). Upon Nils' return he made sure to stock up on contraband (the best of which were tortillas and salsa!!).

For some lovely pictures of the Toby and Sharole O'Hara family, click here.

We'll be sure to keep you posted as we find out the results of the interview and our plans for the future. As always, we feel so blessed to be where we are, right now, and intend to make the most of what we're given (which is a lot!).

Sunday, January 4, 2009

Birthday Socks and the Holidays!


Yes ladies and gentlemen.... These are the BEST SOCKS EVER! My mom made these for my 27th birthday. This is definitely an awesome present. I had to open up the holidays by paying proper tribute to these socks. Oh... and Nils cut my hair too! Nice job, huh!


So... HAPPY HOLIDAYS, MERRY CHRISTMAS, and HAPPY NEW YEAR to everyone!! Nils and I had a few adventures before wrapping up 2008. Follow along as we take on our little two week adventure... :)


Christmas 2008


First stop... this really beautiful hotel... Hotel COOL (that's the actual name of the hotel!). We had the good fortune of working at a ski camp during Christmas week and getting all of our expenses paid for. What we had to do??


We had to teach ski classes every day from 10:30a to 1:00p and from 2:30p to 5:00p. Here's a group of Emily's students walking up the slope. (Cristiana, Andrei, and Andi)


Here's Nils with some of the students, (Robi and Anna), as they wait to get their ski gear


In the evenings, Nils and I would provide music, games, and crafts.


It snowed every day, which made it especially nice for skiing. By the end of the week, though, we were pretty wiped out.

New Year's 2008
Nils and I had planned on making a trip to Istanbul for New Year's. But even the best laid plans don't always work out. After making 3 trips to buy International tickets and being told that the strike in Hungary meant no trains to Istanbul, we decided to wait until after Christmas to get our tickets. In Bucuresti, at the train station, on our fourth visit to a CFR ticket office, we were told that all the tickets to Istanbul would sold out for the next three days and the strike in Hungary wasn't even related to trains traveling through to Istanbul. Oh well...

So instead, with the help of some well-travelled friends (thank you Elder and Sora Hanson!), we decided to tour more of Romania.


In Sibiu... a beautiful city which won the title "Cultural Capital of Europe" in 2007. Definitely worth seeing!


In Braşov, another wonderful city with lovely Christmas lights and old buildings.


And on New Year's Eve in Bucuresti, enjoying a celebration with local missionaries!

Though we miss and love you all very much, we are grateful for the many friends (new and old) who have helped make this holiday season in Romania warm and wonderful!

In Service Training (IST) Oct 20-25

IST (In Service Training) occurs at the 6-month mark after officially becoming Peace Corps volunteers. Ours was October 20-25th and was in the beautiful city of Miercurea Ciuc.

To get there we travelled by train
Here is a picture of some of the staff who did such a good job planning and preparing the training for us! Training and lodging were all at this really nice hotel. Quite posh for the Peace Corps...
Since training was so close to Halloween, one of the volunteers, Richard, who lives in M. Ciuc arranged a Halloween party for our group at a local restaurant. Nils and I couldn't help it... we just had to dress up as Sarah Palin and Joe Six-pack. Little did we know that the other couple in our group were also planning to dress up as Sarah Palin and "Joe the Plumber" (his name is actually Joe too!). Lots of fun! (For those of you who may have forgotten who these people are... Sarah Palin ran with John McCain as his Vice Presidential candidate. During the Vice Presidential and Presidential debates, Sarah Palin referred to "Joe Six-Pack" and John McCain referred to "Joe the Plumber" as ordinary "guys" the common people could relate to. )
My counterpart Dragoş joined us on the last night for a hockey game and genuine Hungarian/Romanian cuisine. Yum!

Fishing Trip Oct 4th, 2008

Sorina and Marian are some of the best people to go fishing with! They not only know all the sites, but know how to enjoy the countryside to the fullest!
But to get there... we need to take a ferry...


Going.....


And coming back....


The day was filled with a lot of fun things!

Beautiful Scenery

My first fish! (my brother Rory would be so proud!)

A "bomb" to catch fish when all hope is lost (packed with mamaliga)

And amazing food brought to you by Sorina, Marian, and Cynthia